Sailing to Santorini and Visiting the Hotel Remezzo

When our ship approached the Greek island of Santorini, it was like looking at the spiky fins of a huge black dragon's tail sticking out of the bluest sapphire waters. The top of the cliffs were covered with white, which looked like snow on ashy, black mountains. I stood at the back of the catamaran. I watched as the engines gulped and spat out huge floods of seawater, creating torrents of white sea foam. And as I looked at the white wake, I felt like I was sailing on a huge and flat sapphire gem. The white wake behind me reminded me of my past and all the unwanted memories and stress that I didn't need. They were all the things I wanted to forget about. The wake, my past, my memories, this trip, would leave a brief scar in the Aegean Sea, but eventually, the Sea would eat it all up and nothing would be remembered, and there would be no traces of the wake or white or the past or memories. 

These islands were created by a volcano, which is still active. It's actually the largest volcano in the Aegean Sea. There used to be more connected landmass, but it sank. Santorini is certainly the place where sea, sky, sun, and fire all converged.

Some people say that the lost city of Atlantis is below the waters of Santorini. I imagined that the Leviathan, the ancient sea dragon, lived beneath the waters of Santorini. The Bible asks: "Who can strip off its outer coat? Who can penetrate [the Leviathan's] double coat of armor^:? Who dares open the doors of its mouth, ringed about with fearsome teeth?" 

And when the Leviathan is enraged, it blows fire from the Aegean Sea. Some times land is created. Other times, land is destroyed. The Leviathan murders and creates. The earth sinks. It's eaten. It's gone. Forgotten by the wind and sea.

* * *

I was waiting for my host. I was thinking that I was not a normal person. I met a stranger on the streets at 2am, who invited me to his home and asked me to come to Santorini. And I said yes. Him and his friend were at a funeral in Athens. I was wondering if he was even coming.

How about if you were me? You didn't hear anything for a few hours. But you know, I knew I could trust  Yiannis. His great hospitality was proof enough. No interview needed.

I waited in Fira, which was full of tourists and was very expensive. Once again, too many Americans. That means prices are going to be high. And they were. 

I ate lunch in Fira. And the food was bad and overpriced.

Yiannis sent me a text around 3pm to change my ferry ticket home for tomorrow. I was staying the night in Santorini.

He told me to walk to meet him in Imerovigli, the next village over. I walked some old farmer's path from Fira to Imerovigli. It was ancient and beautiful and by the sea. I walked it during sunset. There were so many photographers everywhere, probably every 100 feet. This was definitely the Instagram paradise.

* * *

My host found me on the ancient path and invited me to the Hotel Remezzo. He grabbed me and led me to the hotel. The owner's name is Vasillas. He's thoughtful and kind and hospitable. I meet his sister, Electra and his nephew. They're all very lovely family.

When I enter the hotel lobby, Vasillas makes me a beautiful ice tea. It's hot from the sun but cooler with the winds; so, it's good to have a tea and savoring the moment. The tea is bright and yellow and sunny. 

At the lobby, I meet two Californians, who are happy to meet new people. They're names are Jake and Ranithri. They're from the Bay area. 

I sit and we do small talk. It's fun. I see a couple sitting away from us, and they want to join. But they don't.

Vasillas and Yiannis tell us a little bit about their funeral. Their friend, in his 40s, died from a drug overdose. He suffered depression. 

Jake talks about some of those issues within his own family. These topics are a real issue in our world now.

* * *

Vasillas tells me the history of the hotel. It used to be a winery. His father fell in love with Santorini, bought the winery, and transformed it in a hotel.

Did you know there's no fresh water on Santorini? The grapes all grow from the humidity of the air. Also, the dome shapes of the house are round to collect water from the humidity, which drips into a tank. It made me wonder how the first people of Santorini had enough water to survive. It's not like there are wells around.

Also, all the buildings are white, because the ancient people crushed limestone and made it into paint. They did so, to reflect the heat away from the sun and also because it prevents mold from growing.

* * *

Jake was kind and offered me some of his leftover burger. But Yiannis tells me not to eat, because they're taking me out for dinner. I tell Jake, "Everyone thinks they're my boss." I chuckle. But this is true. They do.

Yiannis and Vasillas are kind and invite the other Americans too. And we all eat at their friend's restaurant. The food is so good.

We have what the Greeks call Mezze, which is their word for appetizers or tapas. We have cream and mushroom, feta and cooked cherry tomatoes, pork belly and grilled onions. They order Santorini wine. The food is amazing. It's some of the best food I had in Europe. And there were so much fun and laughter and the telling of stories. Both Vasillas and Electra are thoughtful and reflective and observant people. There was something special about the dinner.

* * *

Vasillas gave me a room for the night. Being in there, I knew I was stepping into ancient Santorini history. I wondered so much about what this room was used for when it was winery. I imagined what it would be like for wine to be aged in this room.

I was told later the room was once used to make wine. So, I was right.

* * *

The next morning Vasillas and Yiannis take me to a breakfast spot high on the hill with beautiful food again. They had whole bread with cheese and honey and nuts, while we drank rich and dark and strong coffee.

 Vasillas tells me stories about growing up with his father on Santorini. Not a bad childhood.

At breakfast, at the taking of the toast and coffee, I told them stories from my life. I told them about getting out of debt and freeing myself to do what I needed to. I also told them stories about my cases. I hope it helped them. I hope I told the right stories. 

There's a story about the Apostle Paul, who God blocked from traveling to Asia. The Apostle had a vision of a man in Macedonia, which was part of Greece, then. Paul knew that he was meant to go there. I wonder if I was meant to meet Yiannis and Vasillas and Jake and Ranithri. I think I was. 

Remember when I landed into Germany, I had no plans. I didn't even know I'd end up in Santorini a few weeks ago.

When I tried to pay for the bill, Yiannis already paid for it.

* * *

Eventually, it was time to say good bye. After saying good bye to Vasillas and Jake and Ranithri. Yiannis and I, however, sailed back to Crete. We talked about his wine making and his future.

Upon landing on Crete, I ate and drank with Yiannis and Marina. 

From there, I went back to my village. I bought two shot glasses from Santorini. One for Nikitas and one for Yiannis. I also bought a magnet for my host of my studio. They were all happy I remembered them.

I felt like Yiannis and Nikitas were my family away from home. I wanted to show them that they were on my mind, and appreciated, even though I only left Crete for two days. And I had this need to tell Yiannis, Nikitias, and Yiannis' family what happened in Santorini. So, I retold my Santorini stories. They listened. Something understood.